Riding Giants is one of my favorite movies, but I don’t surf and, truth be told, I have fear of open water. However, surfing has always fascinated me whether it was a love of T&C surf design shirts from the 80s, skateboarding, or seeing what these guys do on water.
To me there is correlation between big wave surfing and big mountain skiing. Both sports are more than just something you do; they are a way of life to those who participate in them. An outsider looking in at either sport may think “why would you risk you life for a thrill?”
I don’t think it’s just the thrill they risk their life for, it’s something they need to do to live, function, and be happy. Riding Giants shows that. It explains why they chase big waves, risk their lives, and love what they are doing.
I wish I could explain better in my own words but I can’t. I just go ski like these guys surf and get this feeling that only skiing brings me. So check out these clips, and then go check out the movie. It will inspire you to go out there and do something (and hopefully you’ll understand where I’m coming from).